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Grilled Venison Loin (Backstrap) With Horseradish Cream
“He that strikes the venison first shall be the lord o’ the feast.” — Shakespeare, King Lear
1.5 to 2 pounds venison loin, trimmed of silver skin
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, like rosemary, thyme, and oregano
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons freshly grated or prepared horseradish
2 teaspoons chopped fresh
chives or parsley
juice and zest of 1 lemon
Season the meat with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, mix herbs with the olive oil, then spread all over the meat. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Make a hot fire in a charcoal grill or set a gas grill on high. Grill the meat on one side, without moving it, 4 to 5 minutes, then rotate 90 degrees to make grill marks and char more surface area. Flip the loin and cook 4 to 5 minutes more. It should have a deep-brown char on the outside but still be rare on the inside. Transfer to a warm plate and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
Mix the crème fraîche, horseradish, chives, lemon juice, and zest in a small bowl and season with salt. Serve the loin, thinly sliced against the grain, with the sauce.